Sicily

We crossed from the bottom tip of the Italian mainland to Sicily on a ferry. Sicily is one of those places you both love and hate at the same time. I was hoping to see Godfather types sitting around in cafes drinking expresso and talking in hushed tones. Not that any Sicilian is able to talk in hushed tones; converstaions are always very loud and very animated. Anyway, I have learned from watching the Sopranos that the mafia are always involved in the construction and waste management industries and in Sicily on both counts they are doing a bad job it seems. Half completed and ugly construction projects are everywhere and there is so much litter that it makes downtown Joburg look pristine. That aside, Sicily has some beautiful towns,wonderful seaside spots and great historical sites. We spent a few days in Taurmina, and saw Jethro Tull in concert in a 2000 year old amphitheatre. The band is nearly as old as the building but the concert was great.We also spent time in Syracruse and a few days in Palermo. Palermo is a gritty and dirty city that really grows on you, though. There are wonderful cheap restaurants and great markets but also some pretty dodgy slums. Sicilian drivers have to be the worst in the world and every single car there is full of scratches and dings. Getting a new car there would be madness.Italians are the only people who could rush like madmen in the traffic;hooting and yelling and smoking and talking on the phone and driving;home to siesta, where they eat a leisurely meal and sleep for two hours, only to get up and drive back into town like total hooligans again. We left Palermo before 8am to avoid the morning rush hour and make it onto the highway in one piece.